Ker
Indian capers that grow in the desert of Rajasthan. With Sangri pods
they form a classic desert meal. Ker & Sangri, once refined by India’s
maharajas, today is considered as poor man’s food. When bought
in one of Rajasthan’s markets, it can be kept for years. In Shanghai,
David Laris snatches the (re)discovery from the hands of Mark and prepares
a lamb rack on truffled Ker & Sangri.
Saffron
from Kashmir
has a legendary reputation and had it even 500 years ago. Due to the
Kashmir conflict, today only forged or diluted saffron can be found
on the market. At harvest time Mark goes to Pampur, the centre of saffron
cultivation in Kashmir. He is enchanted by the quality of the dried
stigmas of the authentic saffron crocus (crocus sativus). 75.000 blossoms
for 1 kilo of condiment. In New Delhi, the chef of Shangri La prepares
a saffron parfait of Mark’s rare catch.
Ruou
Thom (marinade of fragrances)
Perfume Wine, alcohol based marinade, once created by the “sad”
emperor Tu Duc. In Hué, the imperial city of central Vietnam,
Mark is looking for the six roasted condiments of the marinade that’s
not for sale aynmore. Finally, he is successful: Madame Huy, whose great-aunt
cooked for the imperial family, succumbs to his charm and tells him
the recipe. Mark takes the imperial marinade to some chefs in California
– their opinion: “It’s magic!”
Mak
Bok
lat. irvingia malayana, popular “bush mango”. In the rainy
season, the Mak Bok tree throws off its inedible fruit. When the flesh
is rotten or eaten by animals, a hard seed comes to light. Its interior
is tasty. Mark discovers Mak Bok in a Laotian village. Here the seeds
are served to beer as a salty snack. He is convinced and presents the
jungle seeds to Norbert Kostner, the chef of the legendary Oriental
Hotel of Bangkok. The result: Mak Bok pesto with fresh penne.
Malabar
Monsooned Coffee
When the monsoon lets off its rainy load, near Mangalore a very special
coffee is produced: “Monsoon Coffee”. In lofty go-downs
the green coffee beans are being exposed to the humid monsoon wind.
They become more and more pale, loose some of their acidity. The original
Monsoon Coffee once was refined by the wind on the ships of unsuspecting
Dutchmen. Mark is studying its remake, one of the few noble coffees
that are suitable for establishing an expensive market segment.
Kodampoli
as big as a fist, ripped, sour (very sour) fruits from a tree to be
found in India’s coffee plantations. In the rainy season, the
farm workers don’t have a lot of work. They pick the fruits and
dry them on fire, that gives Kodampoli its smoky sourness. Mark is enthusiastic
about it. In Shanghai, he offers his discovery to Jeremie Leung, China’s
culinary artist. As if by magic, Leung produces a Kodampoli ice cream
that doesn’t leave cold any heart.
Toddy
vinegar
Toddy is a lightly fermented fruit wine, the men’s drink of Kerala.
Mark is invited by a Toddy tapper who is fermenting and filtering Toddy
until vinegar is produced. Would go perfectly with white fish or sea
fruit salad… In Shanghai, Mark is presenting Kerala’s peasant
vinegar to the famous Australian chef David Laris. David caramelizes
malty palm sugar with it and adds the reduction to poached turbot. Delicious.
Elephant
apple
respectively wood apple, lat. feronia elephantum. Its name comes of
the extremely hard shell that allegedly can be cracked only by elephants.
The elephant apple grows on massive trees in the dry plains of India
and Sri Lanka. Mark discovers it at the roadside of Udaipur. In the
past, delicious chutney was made of elephant apple. Today it is a nearly
forgotten food, even in India. In the stock market quarter of Hong Kong,
Chef Harlan Goldstein prepares an elephant apple sorbet.
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